Around the Bloc: West Nab, West Yorkshire
- Friday 9th February 2024
At the very summit of West Yorkshire David Simmonite finally turns right and takes the road less travelled to realise a veritable moorland gritstone bouldering treasure with a wealth of problems to explore.
An Introduction
I’ve been climbing for more years than I care to admit, visiting many places across the UK and beyond so it’s always a pleasant surprise when I venture to a gem I’d heard about but took too long to visit. The place in question is West Nab, a scattering of gritstone blocks on the highest point at 500m in West Yorkshire and within spitting distance of Lancashire.
I must admit that I’ve seen it in the distance when rushing along the Isle of Skye Road (A635) between Holmfirth and Greenfield to bigger or better-known destinations but, having seen the write-up in the new Over the Moors guidebook, curiosity got the better of me and I made the right turn along Wessenden Head Road towards the boulder-filled Meltham Moor. I figured that if the bouldering wasn’t up to much at least I’d tick a high point so it wouldn’t be a wasted journey.
What I found was essentially a ridge of jumbled short outcrops and blocks of very good quality and well-weathered gritstone. This and great views including those across the moorland expanse to the south and down towards the small town of Meltham and the Emley Moor mast to the east. Perhaps a major plus is the peace and tranquillity that West Nab offers. It’s always a dilemma when you bring a quiet venue to the attention of others and I sometimes struggle with it but I always outweigh this with the consideration that others should enjoy this place just as much as I do. And anyway it’s lovely to have a bit of banter with other like-minded folk encountering it for the first time.
With a collection of over 250 problems ranging from V0- to a desperate V10 sloper-fest and a vast number of these in the lower end of the spectrum. On first acquaintance, it can be daunting given the extent of the area though it’s easy to search out the better problems. Some of the developed blocks are diminutive, however, that lends itself to being child-friendly as what is small for adults is just about the right size for kids. Although it sounds idyllic there are one or two downsides; its windswept moorland setting will feel the full brunt of inclement weather and it can be particularly uninviting in winter and get very boggy underfoot.
In terms of layout, the climbing is grouped in clusters with a short bit of walking in between. Visitors often head straight for the prominent Trig Point Boulders to gain their bearings. Once up at the edge, you may spot the odd mysterious ancient carvings and sculptures amongst the boulders including Moses, a compass and a chaise longue or settee depending on your imagination. The Nab is also an aircraft crash site of a B-17 Flying Fortress from during the Second World War and there have been regular sightings of a ‘ghost’ aircraft flying in the vicinity – spooky – but I digress.
The Over The Moors guide highlights 74 problems is a good starting point given that the comprehensive local Bouldering Guide to Huddersfield is well out of print, but there’s plenty to be going on in Over The Moors and it allows the adventurous boulderer to embrace a sense of exploration when moving away from these problems. To give you a nudge in the right direction here are a few of the problems I’ve enjoyed:
A selection of great problems
On the fringes of the Trig Point Boulders are The Moat Boulders where Early Bath (V1) and its right-hand neighbour Wet Boots (V2) are excellent and the names give away the peril of falling off. Both start with a stride across the water to gain the slabby rock before Early Bath heads up left whilst Wet Boots shuffles tentatively right to a small hold on the edge and a surge skywards to the very apex of the block. This duo have a common theme of balancey climbing and they are a good introduction to the climbing at West Nab.
In the same area, Access Denied at V10 is a problem worthy of classic status first climbed by Jason Myers (of Brad Pit at Stanage Plantation Boulders fame). It’s primarily a traverse on hideous pump-inducing slopers with apparently left-to-right being a touch easier. It is the most famous problem at West Nab having been featured in UK mags in the distant past and photographs appeared in the old Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering guide when it had Private No Access painted on its side before the CROW Act opened the area to all. It can also have a large pool of water at its base so choose a dry spell for an attempt (or get wet). At the complete opposite end of the scale and with two particularly good problems for beginners and kids is a block in front and left of the trig point, The Ramp Boulder is home to a handful of tests all around the V0- to V1 grade.
Over and beyond the Trig Point Boulders lie The Settee Boulders with a few short offerings and in particular Neckrest (V1) via an undercut and pinchy hold and just right Bedrest (V5) a desperate exercise in scratching around on tiny pebbles and smears, all tried whilst your mate watches from the comfort of the settee. Don’t forget the popcorn. In the Azra Boulders area over to the right of the trig point is Paul’s Wall (V2) or problem 45 in the Over The Moors guide. This steep wall can feel a little high and care should be taken with the landing, nevertheless, the moves are lovely and surprisingly technical with a little more thought required than first appearances suggest and one or two of the holds being a bit more rounded than you’d like…
And, finally, over towards the far right of West Nab is The Two Arches Boulders with, in my opinion, perhaps the best concentration of quality problems. The most striking is the arête of Archery (V6) with technical committing climbing of the highest order and requiring a positive approach, good footwork and a crux at the top. To the left on the same block is the much easier problem of Archangel via vertical ripples and steady at V2.
Like I said this is a very tiny selection of the bouldering possible at West Nab and enough to give you an idea or three. Since my first visit I’ve returned sometimes without a guide and just climbed what looked good, capped off on one occasion by an amazing sunset to the west after a quality evening’s bouldering session.
Guidebook
Over The Moors produced by the BMC with a good selection of problems, maps and topos.
Parking and Approach – from BMC RAD
The roadside verge which used to give convenient informal parking for West Nab is largely blocked by boulders. There is room for a handful of carefully parked cars – please leave room for the next person if possible. Approaches have been made to the local council and Highways Agency, but the landowner can legally place these boulders on their land. We are continuing to ask the local council to attempt to mediate and come up with a solution. Alternative parking in a larger layby on the right 200m after turning off the A635 (Greenfield to Holmfirth road), and a walk along the road to the crag.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) gives area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer-term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open-access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.