Seb Bouin ticks Bibliographie (F9b+), Ceuse
- Thursday 8th June 2023
Séb Bouin made the fourth ascent of Bibliographie (F9b+) at Ceuse last Saturday.
Originally climbed by Alex Megos in summer 2020, Bibilographie was given F9c. Alex had been trying the 35metre long route for a number of seasons and in total the first ascent took him c. 60 days – four times the length of time that Perfecto Mundo, Alex’s previous new route at Margalef, had taken him. At the time of Alex’s first ascent, the only other route also graded F9c was Silence, in the Hallshalleran Cave at Flatanger.
However, in 2021 Bibiliography saw two repeats; first by Stefano Ghisolfi and then by Sean Bailey. Following Ghisolfi ascent he offered a longer grade of F9b+; firstly Alex Megos himself agreed with the down grade and hence that has become the consensus grade.
Last year Séb Bouin also started trying the route but he didn’t compete it. However, on Saturday June 3rd Séb made the fourth ascent of the route. It follows a remarkable 18 months of climbing for Séb, during which time he made the first ascent of his own route DNA which he graded 9c as well as America’s hardest route Supreme Jumbo Love which he gave 9b+.
Seb commented: “Bibliograpghie was a big goal for this year. Since Alex did the first ascent of this one, I was really psyched to try something really hard from someone else, here in France. Even if Céüse is very far away from my own natural climbing style. I was really motivated to go through the process on Bibliographie. I am usually alone when trying my projects in France and not many people try them, but Bibliographie was something different. You know, a 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers... it was obvious that I had to try it.
“During the process, I fell 11 times at the top of the route (after the main crux). I think I underestimated this last part of the route. It doesn't look or feel that hard when you do this single section in isolation. Yet, when you are coming from the ground, it was way different. I remember Sean Bailey actually fell 13 times up there, so I am happy that he still holds the record ;-). Conditions were quite challenging this year. It was raining almost every day, and we had to wait, patiently, for a good window to make an attempt. Bibliographie is not a route that particularly suits my strengths, so it was a great challenge to do a 9b+ on tiny crimps for me. But, now it's time to go back to something a little more my style ;-).”