Sean Bailey joins Font 9A/V17 gang with first ascent of Shaolin
- Thursday 21st November 2024
American Sean Bailey has made the first ascent of Shaolin (Font 9A) at Red Rock, Las Vegas.
A recent minimalist Instagram post from Sean Bailey, one of the USA’s top climbers, teasted that he had made the first ascent of another Font 9A; the third on US soil after Daniel Wood’s Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Megatron. An accompanying video – see below – filled-in the detail.
The problem – known as the Trieste Project – first came to the wider climbing domain when a video made by Shawn Raboutou featured footage of both Raboutou and Bailey trying the problem. At that time neither were able to link the finish. They were not alone it seems as it was later revealed that the problem has been attempted by many of the US’s top boulderers; all however, left empty-handed. The collective feeling was that the six-move start to the problem was worth a “stern” Font 8B but that the finish was worth Font 8C+ on its own; cumulatively, Shaolin is considered to tip the balance and hence it been graded at Font 9A – or V17 if you prefer - by Bailey.
The problem starts by climbing the sit start to Trieste, itself a Font 8B+ bloc. The meat of Shaolin however, is in the direct finish above which comprises two main moves; both are described as “low percentage” moves. Two methods had been established for the first of the two moves; either a shouldery lock-off or an out-and-out dyno. The execution of the shoulder lock-off was physically draining for Bailey who could only do that move twice in a day. The alternative dyno however - the alternative adopted by Bailey - required both extreme accuracy and control of the hips and hence body momentum. The second of the two crucial moves features a Burden of Dreams-style throw to a distant rail. Thereafter, a short but still droppable top-out sequence is necessary to finish.
The latest video also shows both Bailey and Raboutou on the problem. The difficulties of the two hardest moves are well documented along with Bailey’s frustration related to the bad weather and repeated attempts. In the end, the send by Bailey clearly shows the power and accuracy required. Along with Return of the Sleepwalker, Shaolin is the second Font 9A at Vegas. At the time of reporting only Return of the Sleepwalker has seen a repeat by Will Bosi.
Watch the Mellow video below…