Laura Rogora repeats Trofeo dell’Adriatico (F9a+)

• Thursday 21st November 2024

Italian lead specialist Laura Rogora continues her sending spree with two more F9a+’s including a repeat of Gabri Moroni’s Trofeo dell’ Adriatico in Arco.

As previously reported – click here – Laura Rogora had a remarkable summer run. This last weekend however, it seems as though she's gon into over-drive. In total, over the summer/autumn Rogora has redpointed three F9a+ and three F9a routes as well as repeating numerous other routes in the high F8’s some of which she on-sighted/flashed.

Back in late September Rogora repeated Adam Ondra’s 2010 route Goldrake (F9a+) at Cornalba as well as on-sighted Jedi (F8b) and ticking Gold Jedi (F8c) the same day. In particular, Rogora’s repeat of Goldrake was very impressive given she redpointed it on her second day on the route. After that she visited France and climbed some of the Ramirole testpieces including le flute e chantier (F8c+) on her fourth go before visiting Siurana and Margalef in Spain where she repeated Estado Critico (F9a).

Clearly Rogora wasn’t content with her autominal season as last weekend she first redpointed Bombardino (F9a+) on her fourth attempt and then got on Trofeo dell'Adriatico. That didn’t hold-out for long either; her latest Instagram post confirms that she’s redpointed that now as well. ‘This is for sure one of the best and hardest line I have ever climbed.’

Talking to Vertical Life/8a Rogora gave some background: ‘I tried Trofeo dell’Adriatico for the first time two years ago. However, before the crux, there was a section with a very long move. At the time, I might have managed to do the single move, but it felt really tough, especially because it was part of a not-so-extreme section before the harder boulder problem. So, I never went back to it.

‘Last week, after climbing Bombardino the day before, I returned to Bus della stria and decided to try Trofeo again because it’s such a beautiful line, and I really wanted to climb it. I found a method for the long move that was still hard, but felt more doable. After that move, there was also a knee-bar rest that many climbers use, but I couldn’t reach it, so even resting there was a bit uncomfortable.

‘I wasn’t sure I’d be able to climb the route quickly, even though I managed to figure out the single moves. But I loved the line so much that I went quite often in the last week. Today, on my fifth day on the route, I managed to send it. Already on Sunday, even though I was a bit tired from climbing on Saturday, I had some good tries that made me realize it was possible. Today, I felt good, but on my first attempt, I made a mistake. On my second try of the day, however, I succeeded in completing the route.’