Kille adds new Llanberis testpiece Patrescence (E9 7a)
- Thursday 19th September 2024
Angus Kille has added Patrescence (E9 7a) - another testpiece to the Nant Peris Quarry near Llanberis in north Wales.
Back in June 2022, James McHaffie dragged the small quarry in Nant Peris into the limelight when he climbed Crac Yr Maestri (E9 7a) – click here for that report. Angus was straight in for the second ascent of Crac Yr Maestri shortly afterwards; whilst climbing that route Angus spotted another line to the right. Angus has been working that line for some time and has just been able to make the first ascent.
Reporting his FA on his Instagram page Angus described the climbing on Patrescence saying:
“Very psyched to make this addition to Llanberis Pass climbing. It’s special to find a route that’s quick-drying, close to the road, climbs distinct features, has good (though spaced) protection and no fixed gear. After a well-protected start, a V9 boulder problem leaves you 4m run-out above good gear and ground fall potential. Another cluster of good gear and more marginal stuff takes you up the slabby headwall then a balancey span right to the arête gains easy climbing to the top.”
Explaining the significance of the name of his new route Angus added: “Patrescence refers to the process of becoming a father, which is a journey I’ve been having parallel to this one.
“My efforts to bring this route to life have spanned Hazel’s pregnancy, finally making the first ascent just a few days before her due date. It was a perfect project while my favourite climbing partner was busy doing more important stuff 🤰 – I’ve loved the time alone on a fixed line, escaping from work a few hours at a time, being so involved in a route (it took about 10 sessions of cleaning) and leaving my mark in a climbing area I’m so connected to.”
Angus’ ascent has come about a week or so after James McHaffie added Yma O Hyd (E10 7a/F8c+), a new mega line high on Skyline Buttress in the Ogwen Valley – click here for that report. It appears that Caff’s grading for that route may well have had an influence on Angus’ thoughts given this is what Angus said about the grade for Patrescence:
“I think the climbing must be about 8b, but I’d love a second opinion. In a more linear grading system I reckon this might get E10, but E9 makes sense in the current system. If the pseudo-slate were a little harder, it would easily be three stars (but I think 2 stars is fair ⭐️⭐️).”
Prior to making the first ascent, Angus took a series of deliberate falls from Patrescence to practice the fall. Watch those falls on Angus’ Instagram page here.