Eliot Stephen makes first ascent of The Malleus Maleficarum (Font 8C)
- Monday 12th May 2025
After considerable effort and trauma, Eliot Stephens closes the deal making the first ascent of another South Wales boulder test-piece.
Eliot Stephens has been battling injury, tides and a whole plethora of “conditions” since 2022 in order to bring the first ascent of his latest South Wales addition to fruition. Reporting his first ascent Eliot commented on-line about the drama he’s been through with his latest boulder saying:
‘Probably the problem at home I tried over the longest period of time, despite not being the hardest. I started trying this one in 2022 when @benjamesnorman climbed some new lines in the cave. Several sessions later I came close but messed up my shoulder and had to walk away. 2023 I dipped in for a few sessions before blowing up my hamstring. It seemed like every time I’d get a bit of momentum on it, something would go wrong or the weather would nose dive and it would be back to square one trying again 6 months down the line.’
Explaining the difficulties that he has faced Eliot added;
‘This problem is without doubt the most conditions dependent boulder problem I’ve tried, being tucked away in the back of a tidal cave. To find it in condition you need dry weather, low humidity, low tide, neap tide, a good westerly wind and temperatures not too high as to create condensation in the cave.’
Whilst accepting the “limitations” of the boulder, clearly it’s been a very powerful magnet for Eliot;
‘It might also be one of the least aesthetic boulders I’ve done, being a drop off and having a few pretty skin intensive holds. I’m all for a physical challenge, and got no problem putting my blinkers on, but I definitely started to question why I was trying this thing at times. Its only saving grace is the brilliant sequence of moves.’
Having been in a “run and gun” battle with the problem Eliot drew another blank during 2024 before turning the corner this year seeing progress and eventual success;
‘Fast forward to 2024 and a few more sessions, again in unfavourable conditions. I’m really starting to dislike this boulder. Turning up at least three times to find it totally unclimbable on days where I could have gone almost anywhere else. Weather shits out again, and the winter trips come around. March 2025, I’m in good shape, time to sample again. First session I’m reminded how unpleasant the whole thing is, but I’m still motivated to press on. Second session, unlock an easier method for the crux, and suddenly it’s on. Third session. The best conditions. As dry as rock has ever been. I’m fresh, skin is perfect. First go is close. Second go does the job. Relief.’
The Malleus Maleficarum is Eliot’s second Font 8C first ascent of the year having sent Zircon (Font 8C) at Oxwich back in February. Previously in April 2021, Eliot added South Wales’ first ever Font 8C when he climbed The Origin Sit (Font 8C) at Dinas. Eliot is also the author of the South Wales bouldering guidebook.