Alex Megos smashes fourth ascent of Change (F9b+) in just five days

• Friday 23rd August 2024

Fresh from the Paris Olympics, Alex Megos headed to Norway where he’s recorded a super-fast repeat of Change (F9b+) in the Hanshallaren Cave.

Talking on his own, new podcast (see below) Alex Megos was very disappointed with his results at the recent Olympic Games in Paris. However, his preparation and physical conditioning have left Alex in great shape – remarkably his super-fast fourth ascent of Change came on just his fifth day on the route and before he’d even linked the two separate pitches of Change.

Announcing his ascent of Change on his social media Megos said:

“Words can hardly describe my feelings right now. The disappointment from Paris was still so present when we arrived in Flatanger. I desperately needed a vacation, but I also wanted to check out some routes.

I guess I'm not the guy for big vacations. After 4 days of checking out Change I was able to link both pitches on day 5. I hadn't done either one of the parts individually, but I felt like with a really good try I could actually send. Thankfully that really good try was the first real attempt I made from the ground with a potential send in mind.”

As is often the case at Flatanger during late summer/early autumn, the weather hasn’t been especially good since he arrive a week ago. Despite it raining every day since he arrived Hanshallaren is pretty resilient with regards seepage and that’s allowed Alex to continue work the two-pitch route as well as dropping some bouldering in to the mix.

Change is Alex’s third F9b+ after Perfecto Mundo (F9b+) and Bibliographie (F9b+); unlike those two routes however which were both first ascents, Alex’s ascent of Change is the fourth ascent. Having the benefit of other climbers’ beta will undoubtedly have been assistance but Alex’s five-day ascent is by far the fast he or anyone else has thus far achieved on Change. For reference Alex had some 16 days on Perfecto Mundo and 60 days on Bibliographie. Some of the other top-end routes Alex has also ticked, like Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion and Will Bosi’s King Capella at Siurana, have consolidated at a lower grade of F9b from those originally given by their respective first ascensionist.

Alex, like Stefano Ghisolfi and Seb Bouin who made the second and third ascents of Change, also used a kneepad during his repeat. It’s worth nothing that Adam Ondra’s own ascent back in 2012 was done without the benefit of kneepad(s). Furthermore, in the recent past Alex himself has commented on the grading aspects of using kneepads on routes originally climbed without them believing that the use of kneepads often make routes easier.

Perhaps because of his recent comments on the use of kneepads Alex addressed this aspect of his ascent of Change saying:

“I used one kneepad on my right knee, which does make the crux of the first pitch a little easier than the original beta from @adam.ondra. The top doesn't change too much with a kneepad, when you have really bad kneebar skills like mine. The rests feel more comfortable though. I'm still far away from the kneebad wizardry other people have mastered (but I'm willing to learn).”

It seems that opinions are divided on the impact that kneepads have on the grade of Change. In this case the issue is particularly pertinent given that Ondra didn’t use kneepads on the first ascent. Ondra himself discussed the use of kneepads in this context on-line following Stefano Ghisolfi’s second ascent of Change saying:

‘But it is something we must accept. Even for me, it was not easy to see Stefano Ghisolfi in Change, using the kneepads in places where it was not possible for me without kneepads, but it is evolution and in this case, fortunately I do not think it changes the grade'.

However, both Stefano Ghisolfi and Seb Bouin thought the marginal moves on Pitch 1 of Change would be easier with a kneepad however. Additionally, Seb Bouin has commented that he thinks Change, Move and Nordic Marathon are all worth F9b/+ for ascents with kneepads. For reference, Seb Bouin also suggested after his repeat of Iron Curtain that the grade for that using kneepads was more F9a+ rather than Adam Ondra’s original grade of F9b.

Thoughts on grades with or without kneepads aside, Alex’s super-fast ascent of Change is outstanding. Alex also paid tribute to Adam Ondra’s first ascent of Change back in 2012 saying:

“Hats off to @adam.ondra for doing the FA 12!!! years ago. Felt like climbing a real piece of history.”

Alex had previously visited Hanshallaren back in 2015 when he climbed a number of the classics as well as making the first repeat of Thor’s Hammer (F9a+). Currently, a number of other international climbers are at Hanshallaren; Jorge Diaz-Rullo for example is also working on both Change and Move whilst Stefano Ghisolfi is back working on Silence.

Watch/listen to Alex Megos' podcast below...