Alex Megos kick-starts 2024 with second ascent of Sleeping Lion

• Sunday 7th January 2024

Alex Megos has started his 2024 with the second ascent, and a suggested downgrade, of Chris Sharma’s latest Siurana test-piece, Sleeping Lion.

Described by Sharma as “one of the best routes I’ve ever put up”, Sharma made the first ascent of Sleeping Lion in March of 2023 having first bolted and started work on the project back in 2021. As we reported at the time of his first ascent – here – if Sleeping Lion was confirmed at the grade that would have made Sharma one of a handful of climbers – including Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi and Seb Bouin – to have climbed two or more F9b+’s. At the time of his first ascent Sharma’s ascent of Sleeping Lion came almost exactly a decade after his first F9b+ when he made the second ascent of La Dura Dura at Oliano, Spain. Prior to his ascent of Sleeping Lion, Sharma’s last major first ascent was El bon Combat (F9b/+) in 2015.

Writing on Instagram about the route and his thoughts on the grade of Sleeping Lion Alex had this to say:

‘The first few days I only checked out sections of the route, feeling confident that I'll climb it in two weeks. After falling 4 times on the last move and actually being very surprised how pumpy the last few moves were coming from the ground I understood my first impression was a little deceiving.

In the end it took me 8 days and I would suggest 9b, as both the 9b+'s I did took me at least twice as long.

Very happy to hear what other repeaters will say in the future!’