Spike Fullwood is Superman…
- Friday 11th April 2025
Spike Fullwood, one of the UK’s promising teenage young guns, has just sent Superman (Font 8B) at Crag X in the Peak District, UK..
Originally climbed by Jerry Moffatt back in the day, Superman was one of the harder boulder problems at Crag X weighing in at a heady Font 8A+. After it lost a hold, boulder ace Tim Clifford stepped in a reclimbed Superman at an increased grade of Font 8B. The list of who has climbed Superman reads like a list of who’s who of UK Bouldering. Most consider it solid at the grade and because of its history, it has become a highly prized tick.
By any metric, Spike’s repeat of Superman is pretty remarkable. Although the world news is often studded with reports of amazing hard sends by young guns, the reality is that hard ascents – especially ascents of hard boulders – are just as commonplace as you might think. What is even more remarkable is that prior to sending Superman, Spike’s hardest limestone boulder grade was Font 7C which he climbed last year. In the course of a winter’s season, Spike therefore has increased his boulder grade from Font 7C to 8B, an increase in four grades! In addition, Spike also climbed Superman in a single session! There’s no other way of saying it but his achievement in sending Superman has earned Spike free bragging rights for the rest of the year – not that he’s likely to indulge in such nonsense!
Although Spike only turned 15 back in February it seems that, like many young guns, Spike has been climbing for ages already. Spike told Climber he couldn’t remember exactly when he started climbing but he thinks it would have been when he was about two years old! Spike’s dad Jon Fullwood, will be known by readers as a prolific developer of boulder problems – usually on the grit – in the Peak District. Under Jon’s careful mentorship Spike’s development timeline both outdoors and in competitions is interesting and aspiring; see below for a potted history.
Mark’s Roof Left-hand (Font 7A), Gardoms Sept 2020
Demon Wall (Font 7A+), Almscliffe October 2021
Bronze YCS Final November 2021
Weedkiller Traverse (Font 7B), Raven Tor March 2022
Grune Holle (Font 7B+), Wharncliffe February 2023
Alta (Font 7C), Font April 2023
Bronze Junior British Bouldering Championship June 2023
Bronze Junior British Lead Championship October 2023
Gold at Scottish Youth Bouldering Championship April 2024
Free Monster (F8a), WCJ July 2024
Gold U17 British Bouldering Champion January 2025
Superman (Font 8B), Crag X April 2025
Now that we’ve set the scene, here’s an exclusive Q&A with Spike about his ascent of Superman:
How did you come to get involved with Superman and what was your first impression of the problem?
I'd been to Crag X once before last year and done Zippy's Problem and liked the climbing there. I'd been looking for something hard to try this year. People had said I was strong enough to climb something hard, so I thought I'd try Superman. It didn't look reachy and I like crimps.
We understand there was quite a team at the crag; how helpful/inspiring was it to share the experience of Superman with everyone who was there?
It was great to have Shauna and Ned help with the beta as they've both done the problem. Having a psyched gang at the crag encouraging me to try hard also helped. I'm used to climbing in a competition situation so I'm not phased by this at all. It helps that I knew everyone there and they're all lovely people. It was midweek and I was out with mum as it was the school holidays, she's always super supportive of course.
Originally climbed by Jerry Moffatt, Superman was re-climbed by boulder-ace Tim Clifford after a hold broke and since then it’s been well-known for being a benchmark at the grade. That didn’t stop you however getting the job done in a single session; has that sunk in yet exactly what you’ve achieved?
It was a bit of a surprise. I guess it must suit me. Having help with the beta was really useful. I think competitions give you the skill of quickly working out how to move on a climb and then executing. It definitely makes me excited to try other hard problems.
Remarkably, Superman is your first 8th-graded boulder problem outside; your hardest limestone bloc being previously Font 7C last summer! That’s an amazing progression – have you found some secret sauce and if so, would you like to share it?!
Yeah, I've done some tricky board climbs but it's hard to know what grades they were. I'm definitely stronger than I was on the limestone last year. I did quite a bit of training over the winter in preparation for the BBCs which were also the selection event for the Youth Team. I've not spent any time trying to project anything as I just want to get strong rather than spend ages trying to tick a big number. For now, if something feels hard, I'd rather come back when I've grown a bit or got a bit stronger and do it quickly. Having really good and strong friends to train with has also pushed my climbing on, Sheffield is great for that. Having a good coach and psyched climber parents is a big help too. And eating lots of chicken wings.
You’ve had a stonking start to 2025 scooping gold at the U17 British Bouldering Championships as well as being a finalist in the U17 British Lead Championship and at the Rab 2025 CWIF. Do you have a preference for bouldering or lead?
I like both but bouldering is definitely my preference.
What’s next for you?
This is my first year on the GB Youth Team for Boulder and Lead. The first European Cup event is in Portugal at the end of the month and I'll be going to another five European events after that. I'm pretty excited about that, especially as lots of my friends are going too. That'll take up a lot of time but I'm hoping to keep getting outside too when I can and getting on more hard boulders and routes. Maybe some more first ascents this year. I really enjoy all sorts of climbing, trad, sport, bouldering, DWS, and all rock types. I'll get time to do all these eventually but for now, I'm pretty comp focused. If I get a chance I'm also keen to go back and try the sit start to Superman, which I did the extra move on the other day.
Finally, have you got your eye perhaps on Olympic qualification for Los Angeles in 2028?
I haven't really thought that far ahead. Will have to see how the internationals go this year, but you never know, if things go well.
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Foot Note:
Since Spike's sent Superman he's been back and completed the moves on the sit start as well as repeating the stand version for video. Click here to watch Spike repeating Superman.