Siebe Vanhee Flashes Muy Caliente (E9 6c) in Pembroke, Wales.

• Tuesday 26th August 2025

Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee successfully made the first flash ascent of the trad climb Muy Caliente (E9 6c) at Stennis Ford, Pembroke, Wales. The route, which was first established by British climber Tim Emmett in 2010, was originally graded E10 7a, but it’s now regarded as E9 6c, following a number of repeats over the years.

On top of his flash of Muy Caliente, Siebe also collated an impressive tick list so far during his Pembroke trip, which is still ongoing:

• Point Blank (E8 6c) Onsight

• Mercia Wall (E8 6c) Onsight

• San Simian (E8 6c) Onsight

• Nothing to Fear (E8 6b) Flash

• Do you know where your Children are? (E8 6c) Flash

• Boat to Naxos (E7 6b) Onsight

• The Black Lagoon (E6/7 6b) Flash

• Half Man, Half Beast (E6/7 6b) (no pegs) Flash

Sending details to Climber about Muy Caliente, he had this to say: “The UK trad scene has always inspired me. The stories about the historical lines, how they were first climbed by legends, and how they’ve been repeated by others. Climbing on Pembroke’s limestone sea cliffs has been high on my list for a long time. Early this spring, I contacted Jim Pope to check if he would be available and psyched. I got a positive answer and we stuck to the plan!

I’ve never approached a flash attempt so seriously as this one. Seriously, for me at least ;). Long enduro limestone routes are my style. Trad, runouts and the head game are what I love; it gets me into a great state of flow and joy."

"Upon arrival in Pembroke, I knew I would directly aim for the famous hard classics; this is what I came for. Although I didn’t want to jump blindly ground-up on every other route, neither would I throw ropes from above if I would feel intimidated by a climb. I gathered info from the locals and some friends about how feasible an onsight, flash or head point ascent would be of the classics in my list.

Slowly it became clear I had it in me to give Muy Caliente a flash attempt. But like any other great flash, you always need someone giving you the beta, even more so in trad climbs with a high E grade, where placing the right protection is crucial. Ben Heason has been part of the crew here these days and spent 3 hours chalking up and remembering the beta (he climbed the route many years ago).

I watched a video of Hazel Findley and one of James Pearson, but that was about it. After a rest day observing Ben and the holds from the opposite side of the gorge, I decided it was time to just get on it the next day. It’s easy to postpone a try out of fear of choosing the wrong moment.”

Detailing the route and the climbing, Siebe said: “The first 10m of the route are shared with the classic E6 6b, Ghost Train, from two threads [of that route], Muy Caliente moves slightly left on small crimps and big moves. Before reaching the next in-situ thread at another 10m distance from the last protection, you manage to place a small RP, key locking it into a thin crack. Next, I placed a yellow Totem cam that gives some confidence to continue two more moves to a left-handed mono from where you clip the thread and place another purple Totem cam.

Although it isn’t considered as the crux, getting the mono with the right hand was a real struggle for me. I even took out the yellow Totem cam and dropped it to be able to swap hands in an awkward hold. I was close to falling and got mega pumped, but managed to get to an uncomfortable rest. After 5 minutes of pumping veins, I decided I felt fresh enough to launch myself in the last (real) crux, more crimps!

I walked the moves as if they were part of the easy ending to the top, thanks to the good Ben Heason beta. What a relief! If it wasn’t for that yellow Totem I removed, I wouldn’t have passed that middle section.

Onsighting and flashing hard trad climbs was the real goal of this trip. I’m so grateful for the amazing weather, the fun vibes, good support and incredible routes and rock quality. The trip is only halfway, and the list of routes is still long! Can’t wait for more! Our current daily routine: Simon’s Field => Crag => Pub!”