Schild makes free ascent of Joy Division in Val di Mello
- Tuesday 5th August 2025
Jonas Schild, climbing with Thomas Schmid, has made a free ascent of Joy Division (F8b, 800m), Val di Mello, Italy.
‘One of the most formative experiences of my climbing career. ’
Schild sent Climber this news – you can read a much more detailed account from Schild by clicking here:
In June, Jonas Schild and Thomas Schmid climbed the route Joy Division (Variation) on Torrione Qualido in Val di Mello. Schild completed every single pitch without falling (free). This 800m high rock face is one of the most demanding in Europe and offers a fascinating challenge comparable to the legendary El Capitan in America. The route is a combination of three existing lines, which were first free climbed in 2004 by local climbing legend Simone Pedeferri, albeit in several stages on different days. Over the past 20 years, there have been only a few known ascents, including those by James Pearson, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher.
The two spent three days on the wall, exploring the first nine pitches with difficulties up to F8b. They had to contend with difficult conditions, as the strong sun at this time of the year beats down on the wall until around 2 p.m.
This led to a clear strategy for the free climbing attempt: the ascent would take place over two days, including an overnight stay in a portaledge (hanging tent). The climbing time was set for the early morning hours, with a break at noon in the portaledge and a continuation of the climb from the afternoon until late in the evening.
On June 12, after a day of rest, they began their attempt. Schild completed the first and most difficult pitch before 7:00 a.m. Due to a fall and the increasing heat, Thomas Schmid gave up his own free climbing ambitions for the sake of the team. However, they stuck to the tactic they had adopted from Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher, two of the most renowned big wall free climbers: pitches above F8a are climbed lead, below that, the lead climber is changed. In total, Schild climbed 14 of the 20 pitches of this ascent. On the first day, they climbed up to the seventh pitch and mastered the second crux (F8b) (on the fourth pitch).
The next day, they continued the ascent early in the morning. From the tenth pitch, they switched to the route Con un piede in paradiso for three pitches, as Babsi and Jacopo had done on their ascent. After another long lunch break in the portaledge and careful exploration, Schild managed to complete the eleventh and final difficult pitch with a difficulty rating of F8a (F6b+/A1) without falling at 4 p.m.
They then continued their ascent in partly Alpine conditions. After the 13th pitch, they switched to the Melat route for two pitches. Thanks to a rope they fixed, they were able to abseil down the same line and return to the portaledge they had left at the start of the 11th pitch. They mastered the last five pitches without any major difficulties and reached the summit as the last rays of sunshine disappeared. They then rappelled down in the dark and spent another night in the portaledge they had left behind to complete the rest of the climb the next morning.
“This experience was one of the most formative of my climbing career. The combination of intense climbing moments over so many pitches in a breathtaking landscape and the necessary teamwork made this experience unique,” Schild commented.