Orrin Coley flashes Ganymede Takeover in Brione
- Thursday 13th August 2020 at 6.55pm
April 10th; 2019
Orrin Coley has just had a trip to Brione, Switzerland where he came away with a flash of Ganymede Takeover (Font 8a+).
The Guilty Of The Hilti | 8A+ Almost one of the best in the area. Sustained climbing, cool moves and a high finish on poor holds really makes it worth the effort. Just a shame about the drilled pocket and sketchy top out! Psyched to put it down quick tho ðŸ‘Œ ðŸ“· @smh_prior @socialclimbing_leicester @evolv_worldwide @prana @metoliusclimbing @latticetraining @beyondhopeuk
Orrin Coley’s IG feed showing him sending The Guilty of the Hilti (Font 8a/+). Photo @smh_prior
On-sight/flash burns on super hard blocs really is the stuff of dreams for boulderers and whilst they’re generally as rare as hen’s teeth it’s one of the strongest drivers for most blocmiesters. Arguably the best ever flash of a super hard boulder was done by, who else but, Adam Ondra when he flashed Jade (Font 8b+) in RMNP in 2015. That wasn’t the first time nor the first climber to flash Font 8b+ however; Ondra has flashed two other Font 8b+’s, Jimmy Webb has flashed two, whilst Daniel Woods, Liam Vance, Jacob Schubert and the UK’s on strongman, Ned Feehally, have all flashed blocs at that level.
Concentrating on UK action/climbers Nathan Phillips flashed Ropes of Maui in Llanberis in 2017. Going further back in history Tyler Landman flashed Font 8b back in 2008 and before that James Pearson notched up flashes of three blocs including Ganymede Takeover, which was then Font 8b+, - at Brione in 2007.
Orrin Coley has just added his name to those who have flashed harder than Font 8a with a flash of Ganymede Takeover, now given Font 8a+, during his two week visit to the Swiss blocs at Brione.
CLIMBER caught up with Orrin to get the low-down…
For starters, what was your tick-list whilst at Brione?
There's a lot of climbs around Brione with grades that haven't quite settled yet so if I were to base it on the unofficial guidebook grades I did about 14 problems from 8A-8A+. But personally I feel that a good handful of them are a bit easier than that. My favourites would probably be Ganymede Takeover 8A+ (flash), The Guilty Of The Hilti 8A/+, La Brionesque 8A, Frogger 8A, Special Edition 7C+ and Wie Im Urlaub 7C+.
Was your main target whilst there onsighting/flashing hard blocs?
I didn't exactly plan a list of stuff to try before leaving for a change, I just went with the intention of trying harder climbs. However, regardless of the lack of pre-planned tick list the underlying goal was to improve at flashing boulders and try to complete at least one of the classic 8Bs there.
Can you talk us though how you prepared for trying to flash the harder blocs and then how your ascent of GT went.
The flash of Ganymede I feel started early in the day rather than the evening when it actually happened. I'd been struggling to flash any of the climbs I'd hoped to, making stupid mistakes or not having my head fully there on the attempts.
So to start off I lowered my standards, warmed up then tried to flash a 7A, which I managed. Next we moved to a short crimpy 7C and again I managed to flash it. Confidence a bit higher we moved to Entwash 8A, sadly I didn't manage to flash it but eventually figured out a way for me to do it and sent it shortly after Alex and Daniel.
We moved over to Wie Im Urlaub 7C+ next. Daniel pulled out the flash and I followed 2 or 3 attempts later. Confidence higher as I knew given the right climb I could manage a good flash.
We all moved over to where Ganymede Takeover is after that. I'd saved it from first day because I felt like given the right opportunity I could manage the flash.
It’s on a super steep boulder by the river. Some steady intro moves lead you into the tiny crimps, a left heel/toe lock, a launch for the finishing jug followed by a massive one armed swing.
While Alex and Daniel where resting on their respective climbs we dragged the pads under Ganymede. I'd spent the past hour staring at it, figuring out the sequence, working out the distance between holds, coming up with the exact way I wanted to do it. Then hyped myself up with the confidence I'd do it exactly as I planned and give it maximum effort.
Once I started climbing I had tunnel vision. It all went to plan, it was like I'd done it before. The only moment where I really became aware of my conscious thoughts was while going for the finishing jug and taking the one armed glory swing. It'll be a good moment to remember.
Is there more left in your tank?
It’s hard to say for certainty if there's more in the tank. Given the appropriate climb, the correct preparation and maybe a little bit of luck I'm confident I could flash harder. But I suspect it'll be a while. We shall see...