Mélissa le Nevé repeats Action Direct
- Tuesday 26th May 2020
Mélissa le Nevé has repeated Action Direct (F9a), the world-famous Wolfgang Gullich testpiece in the Frankenjura.
le Nevé’s repeat of Action Direct was not only her first route of that grade but it was the first repeat of Action Direct by a women. Her success came after a six-year period trying the route. Posting on-line Mélissa said: ‘What a journey ... what an inspiring person... what a fight... but also “une histoire d’amour”... everything I searched in climbing.’
As anyone following Mélissa on her Instagram page will know that she’s been concentrating on training strength and power for some time as the numerous posts of her doing classic workouts such as lock-offs, fingerboarding – including mono front levers, complex training sets featuring heavy resistance and dynamic will attest.
Mélissa has been working with a trainer who has shared her dream: ‘It was my dream and became @guillaumelevernier ‘s one. He gave me his full support with a genius training plan. Sharing this goal and seeing his motivation helped me to become self-confident, to be persistent, and finally give it all in the moment.’
Long-term projects can all too often become very difficult to close-out. It seems that working with her trainer and getting advice from others – such as Markus Bock – has given Melisa the edge to break through into the power levels required to repeat Action Direct.
Understandably Mélissa is delighted: ‘I was hoping this moment will arrive for ages. Never I would have imagined how emotional it would be to clip the anchor. I totally fell in love with the process, to solve the puzzle and unlock this jump. So obsessed that it thought me patience. Years of commitment, ups and downs, hope and many doubts.’