McHaffie and Varian add Moonrise Kingdom (E9) on Skye.
- Thursday 6th August 2020 at 12.05pm
May 16th; 2017
Having repeated Skye Wall (E6/7) last year, James McHaffie and Dan Varian have just returned to Skye’s Coir’-Uisg Buttress to produce one of the hardest multi-pitch trad routes in the UK; Moonrise Kingdom (E9).
James ‘Caff’ McHaffie and Dan Varian on the crucial second pitch of Moonrise Kingdom. Photo Ray Wood
According to DMMClimbing, James and Dan arrived on Skye with Ben Bransby, Adam Long and Ray Wood in early May. The day after arriving, James and Dan set out to try the line on-sight! James was soon into the meat of the route but the only protection was from a nest of skyhooks. James explains the situation via the DMMClimbing post: ““The slim groove out left I’d planned to head to from here also didn’t look as promising for pro as it had from the ground.” Somewhat deterred, James managed to get a poor Offset nut in and slowly lowered off.
James and Dan then abbed the line but all they found was more hard climbing an no obvious protection apart from what they described as an ‘ok’ Offset wire 12metres above the skyhooks. Tired from their efforts and with the weather breaking, James and Dan were finally able to get back to work a couple of days later. This time James dug deep and headed for the Offset high above the skyhooks on what proved to be the crucial second pitch. Dan, having lead the first pitch then led the duo up the third and final pitch to give Moonrise Kingdom (E9 6b, 6c, 6a/b). Caff summarised the climbing as being: “It’s immaculate but serious climbing. Similar to the E9 Indian Face in my mind.”
For the full report click through here to go to DMMClimbing.