James Squire adds Skyfall at Secret Spot
- Tuesday 11th August 2020 at 1.43pm
Oct 9th; 2019
James Squire has returned to Secret Spot to add another test-piece roof problem, Skyfall Font 8b+.
James Squire on Skyfall
James has had something of an eventful summer not least having ‘collected’ a finger injury then a knee injury and then latterly developing a toe issue!! Back in August however, James posted that he’d added For Your Eyes Only (Font 8b) at Secret Spot – a new location developed by Liam Fyfe. James managed to climb For Your Eyes Only during a night session. For Your Eyes Only climbs out from the back of the roof to join and finish on an existing problem, The Undetectables, via what James described as ‘sustained, powerful and tensiony roof climbing’.
Watch a short video of James climbing For Your Eyes Only in his Insta post below.
For Your Eyes Only [8B] First Ascent On Sunday afternoon I checked out this amazing find from @fyfeeboywonder. Psyched with just how mega this thing is, I came back the next day with more pads and joined the strong locals for a night session. This new line climbs straight out the roof from sitting at the back and joins the ending of the crag classic ‘The Undetectables’. Sustained, powerful and tensiony roof climbing. Fuckin awesome. Big respect to Liam Fyfe for finding and developing this boulder. Thanks for a fun session @fyfeeboywonder, @eliotstephens, @almason1995, @morgan.preece and @richard_marotta. Hopefully see you again soon. Swipe left for the video (which doesn’t show the first couple of moves ðŸ™ƒ ) ðŸ™ðŸ‘€ðŸ‘€ðŸ‘€ðŸ’ŽðŸ’ŽðŸ’Ž @lyonequipment @lasportivagram @petzl_official @sublimeclimbing #bouldering #climbing #southwales #secretspot
Since then James has been to Magic Wood where he did Steppingstone (Font 8b) and then, despite suffering from a crooked knee which he picked up trying Practice of the Wild, he was able to tick off an old nemesis problem, From Shallow Waters to the Riverbed (Font 8b+).
That was a month or so ago – since which has has been suffering from a toe problem. Finally, and eventually feeling better, James returned to Secret Spot with a view to trying the direct line on For Your Eyes Only – ie without what James describes as the ‘press out right at the end’. Although the rock in the roof was dry the landing was partially flooded and James had to pull onto the starting holds above a foot of water! Nevertheless, James was able to nail the direct line which he’s called Skyfall. James graded Skyfall Font 8b+ but comments that it’s soft and it might just be 8b. Either way, it looks an absolute classic.
Earlier in the summer James repeated Spray of Light (Font 8c) at Rocklands and added the first ascent of Keep it Real (Font 8b+) at Biblins Cave. Thus far this year James has climbed a dozen blocs of Font 8b or harder.
You can follow James on his Instagram page here…