Dai Koyamada sends super project at Mount Hiei
- Thursday 13th August 2020 at 6.31pm
May 10th, 2015
News is emerging that Dai Koyamada has just completed yet another amazingly hard bouldering project. Details are limited but it seems that Dai has been trying this project – a monster roof - for three years and considering how hard he climbs it’s clear that this is very hard. At the moment however, he has yet to offer either a name or a grade.
Dai Koyamada on the initial section of his project. Photo Dai Kayamada website
An accomplished sport climber, Dai Koyamamda has concentrated on bouldering over the last decade or so during which time he has amassed an incredible number of hard (Font 8b+ upwards) blocs. One of Dai’s earliest hard blocs was The Wheel of Life (Font 8c) in the Australian Grampians - a line which he climbed back in 2004. What is really impressive is that fact that the vast majority of his hard blocs, now believed to be in excess of 30, are first ascents whilst the rest are second or third ascents! According to Hard Climbs website, Dai has notched-up no less than 37 ticks across the world’s hardest bouldering areas. Compared to other top boulderers Dai’s record is truly amazing; Daniel Woods, with 30 blocs, is the next closest to Dai whilst Adam Ondra has 23 with Jimmy Web and Nalle Hukkataival having 20 each.
Dai Koyamada on the middle section of his project. Photo Dai Kayamada website
We have tried to pick the details from a translation of a post on his website. It seems that Dai first saw the project three years ago on a visit to the Mount Hiei area of Japan. Conditions have hampered Dai’s attempts – especially seepage. We believe that the difficult climbing on the roof falls into two halves with a rest separating the two. Having climbed both halves separately, Dai committed to completing the job this year.
Dai Koyamada on the final section of his project. Photo Dai Kayamada website
It appears that the actual ascent came a few days ago although it was anything but straight forward. When he arrived some holds were still wet from rain and the sun was shining. As temperature s fell and light faded, Dai’s first two attempts crashed. His third and fourth attempts – after dark – also crashed; the fourth after the rest. Dai’s fifth attempt was successful however although it seems that he had to top-out up a 5m slab with little or no light!
Click through here to go to Dai’s website…