Alex Megos nails first ascent of Perfecto Mundo F9b+ at Margalef
- Wednesday 5th August 2020 at 8.14pm
May 11th; 2018
The news from Margalef, Spain is that Alex Megos has just done the first ascent of Perfecto Mundo (F9b+).
Alex Megos reflecting on his success on his IG page just a day after the first ascent. The photo by Pic @ken_etzel shows Alex on the crucial moves.
Alex has been in Spain since mid-April. Together with Chris Sharma and Stefano Ghisolfi, Alex has been working the line which takes the hugely overhanging front face of Finestra sector at Margalef.
Writing on his IG page Alex said; “I'm incredibly relieved. This has been an important process in my climbing career and clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+ as well as getting the FA was an incredible experience.”
Alex was full of praise for Chris Sharma who originally bolted the line and to Stefano Ghisolfi who belayed Alex on his successful attempt. “Thank you to @chris_sharma for bolting this thing and the good sessions over the last couple of weeks and big thanks to my good friend @steghiso for belaying me on the send, for being a big source of motivation and a great inspiration to me.”
Perfecto Mundo is Alex’s first F9b+ and his hardest route to date. He now becomes the third person to climb F9b+; Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma having already done routes at that grade. Previously, Alex did the first ascent of Fight Club (F9b) in Canada but Perfecto Mundo is a clear step-up in difficulty and takes Alex closer to what many believe is his true potential to climb the very hardest grades currently possible.
Writing on his IG page Adam Ondra clearly recognised Alex’s strength and ability; “Hats off man! Most of all, @alexandermegos sent Perfecto Mundo pretty fast, maybe not for his standards, but for 9b+ standards for sure!”
Chris Sharma himself has been trying the line on and off since first bolting the line. However, as is the way on continental crags, other climbers have been trying the line as well. Hopefully, Sharma will continue on Perfecto Mundo which would be his second F9b+ if he’s able to send it. Chris too was very pleased for Alex and especially happy that his long-term project is now a route. It's clearly got him fired up as well! "