Emma Twyford makes third ascent of Yma O Hyd (E10 7a)

• Thursday 28th August 2025

As the weather is set to change, Emma Twyford succeeds on her mission to make the third ascent - the first female ascent - of Yma O Hyd (E10 7a) on Skyline Buttress in north Wales.

Emma Twyford has one of the best trad and sport climbing CVs around, including ascents such as Big Bang (F9a) and Big Issue (E9 7a). Just over a year ago, Emma repeated Neil Carson’s classic Mission Impossible (E9 7a/F8b) high on Skyline Buttress in the Ogwen Valley. Before we dive into Emma’s success on Yma O Hyd, it’s worth just reminding ourselves of Emma’s thoughts after completing Mission Impossible.

Back in July 2024, this is what Emma said about MI.

“Pretty psyched to finally knock this route off the project list, I’ve not had something test my perseverance like this in a while. I started really trying it in the last couple of years but the first year I wasn’t in the right headspace to try hard with my friend’s accident and last year it rained a lot so the chances to try were short lived! Throw in the fact that a crux hold often seeps, trying it when it’s hot makes it feel nails and I’d turn up tired from route setting, this made it hard work. But this BTS grind leads to that moment of sweet success!”

Fast forward to now, Emma has been back up to Skyline Buttress for Yma O Hyd (E10 7a). Originally climbed by James “Caff” McHaffie, Steve McClure slipped in for the second ascent just before the weather broke at the tail-end of 2024. Steve was back in action on Yma O Hyd earlier this year – his ascent this time was a climb it peg-free in what he described as a “personal” mission.

Keen for more details, not least on the commitment angle, Climber has been in touch with Emma with a Q&A.

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For starters, let’s set the scene: Is Yma O Hyd the hardest trad route you'd tried?

Without a doubt, I think MI or Big Issue would be next on the list but the start of Yma O Hyd is a whole lot less sporty than MI, with some funky fall potential and pumpy to place kit.

Skyline Buttress and, in particular, Mission Impossible and now Yma O Hyd, seem to have gotten under your skin and are special to you. Can you say why?

I think for anyone who has hiked up to Gallt yr Ogof they can attest to the quality of the routes, which make them worth the effort. It's been a while since I've felt the same way as I did on Big Bang, though this took less time to do. I think with most routes I've done recently, I knew I could do them quickly, even if they were challenging. But some questions post-Covid kicked in; did I still have that fight to try really hard? As I turn 40 next year, will I still be physically able to push it to my max?

I knew I could do Yma O Hyd and I loved climbing on it; it was fun but it definitely challenged my self-doubts. I think tapping into that raw try-hard that's deep down is really special and this route made me do that. I learnt so much about switching between staying calm and flowy to quickly flipping the switch to try hard. I also find it special when there is an element of uncertainty so I know the challenge level is right up there at my limit.

A few days ago you posted saying that you had "gone all in" on Yma O Hyd, risking walking away with nothing. What inspired you about Yma O Hyd to go "all in" and is that level of commitment where it's at for you at the moment with your climbing?

It's probably not the method I necessarily would have chosen as a tactic, it can bring a whole lot of unexpected pressure but with an injury early in the season, getting married and having a busy period of work in July, it ended up being the feasible method if I wanted to stay in tune with the route and iron out the kinks. Because the crux can be fickle with seepage, you just have to show up when there is a chance it might be dry. It's nice to mix it up and vary the challenge levels, though. I think this level of commitment comes round for me every few years when I'm ready for it.

Were you able to deploy any of the tricks/ work-arounds you'd learnt on previous routes - say, physical training or mind games - that helped with the send on Yma O Hyd?

I think going up with low expectations as it wasn't ideal conditions really helped, but I also really focused in on my breath work, staying calm and controlled up to the crux of MI but then hitting an adrenalised breath and power screaming through the MI crux. I've learnt a lot of that through various hard trad and sport projects to help make it count. Physically I wasn't training much in the summer because of the setting; just trying to stay fresh for the route was more important.

What would you say was the hardest aspect of Yma o Hyd for you?

Apart from the crux being dry to try it properly, I would say the hardest thing was arriving at the crux of MI fresh enough to do it. This meant trying to climb calm and efficiently through physical start on small gear. Towards the end, it was not getting too nervous at the crux when you know you can do it.

You, as well as Caff and Steve and a number of others, have certainly put the hours in walking up to Skyline Buttress and fully committing to the process up there! Is that it for you now - or might you try and replicate Steve Mac's peg-free ascent of Yma O Hyd?

I don't think I'll be trying to replicate Steve’s effort - that was next level! I would happily hike back up there, though for Ty Pwmpty and to finish Heart of Stone. I think the wall up there is one of the best, and though the walk in is a bit of a slog at this time of year, you can stop to eat the bilberries, the views are spectacular, you see jets flying by and the climbing is sublime.