Billy Ridal makes eighth ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a)

• Monday 23rd June 2025

Billy Ridal battles massive falls and snapping micro nuts to make a rare repeat of Rhapsody (E11 7a) at Dumbarton.

Following a protracted two-year siege, Dave MacLeod finally made the first ascent of Rhapsody back in 2006; at the time, it was the UK’s first route to be graded E11. Since then, it’s had a number of repeats from top climbers including Sonnie Trotter (2008), Steve McClure (2008), James Pearson (2014), Jacopo Larcher (2016) and Gérome Pouvreau (2018). Following a lull in activity, Mat Wright added his name to the distinguished list in April of last year. All have battled the considerable pressure Rhapsody involves; hard and sustained face climbing, facing a massive, albeit generally “safe”, fall and the renowned “tricky” Dumbarton conditions.

Ironically, Billy started climbing in the same year that Dave made the first ascent – i.e. way back in 2006. “I didn’t exactly take a straight path since then to climbing it, but it’s always been a source of inspiration.” Billy said, describing his long-standing interest in the route after making his own ascent last week.

Although until relatively recently he has been better known as a competition climber, Billy has been increasingly diversifying his climbing interests. Stepping away from the comp scene Billy, along with Alex Waterhouse, made the first British ascent of The Nose (5.14/F8b+) in Yosemite Valley in autumn 2023. Earlier this year, Billy achieved another personal best, repeating Big Island (Font 8C) in Fontainebleau, a boulder which he first tried back in 2021 and has returned to on numerous occasions since before finally getting the tick back in March.

In contrast to many repeats, Billy’s send of Rhapsody has come in a few days over limited visits. Talking to 8a.nu, Billy outlined how his progress unfolded; “I went up to Dumbarton last month, the idea being to scope Rhapsody out, ready to train for it in the Autumn. It was obvious from my initial play on top rope that I got on with the style.”

Following a couple of speedy top-rope links, Billy quickly got onto the lead; inevitably talking the massive whipper: “I was nervous that first go, climbed the crack quite poorly, was pumped at the rest, but figured I should give it my best and get to grips with being above the gear. I got up into the final crux section and after a few moves of whimpering, took the whip.”

That gave Billy the confidence to return and finish the job off last week. His ascent didn’t go without some drama, however. With his hands almost on the top of the route, Billy fell again; this time, however, snapping the key micro-wire in the process. Fortunately, a second backup wire just below held! With the security of two new micro wires, Billy made his ascent the following day.

Writing about his ascent on Instagram, Billy summed up his experience on Rhapsody, saying, “It’s been a pleasure being up on that headwall, having my own experience with a position and sequence that in some ways I already felt familiar with. The tempo of the route makes it feel really special, it builds through the initial draining crack to a decent rest and your final pieces of gear before questing in to the headwall, where unrelenting but never stopper moves allow you to fight against your fatigue, and your fear, as the lip gets closer and the gear farther away. It came together for me quicker than I anticipated, but not before the route inflicted its full weight, taking the whip right from the top floor and snapping one of the key nuts for good measure.

The UK has something unique in this kind of trad, it adds bags of character to a route. Rhapsody demanded something new from me because of that character, and that made the process so much richer.”

The addition of Rhapsody at E11 alongside Big Island at Font 8C and The Nose at 5.14/F8b+ to his CV, Billy is making a considerable name for himself as a very accomplished all-round outdoor climber. It’ll be interesting to follow his progress to see what comes next – a F9a sport route perhaps?

Finally, @britrockfilms were alongside Billy at Dumbarton filming his ascent for a forthcoming video, so that should be another very exciting addition to the annual film release.