Alpine North Face record shattered
- Tuesday 22nd April 2025
Swiss pro alpinists Nicolas Hojac (32) and Austria's Philipp Brugger (33) have shattered a two-decade-old speed record by completing the North Faces of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau in just 15 hours and 30 minutes - almost 10 hours faster than the previous record.
Reflecting on their achievement, Hojac described the experience as "completely surreal." Initially, the duo had hoped to complete the traverse in 19 to 21 hours – already a daunting challenge. But finishing in far less time left them both astonished, a powerful reminder, Hojac said, that "we're often capable of more than we think."
The trio of peaks – Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau – are among the Swiss Alps' most iconic and challenging climbs. The North Face of the Eiger, a sheer 1800-metre limestone wall cloaked in snow and ice, has been the stage for many dramatic and historic ascents.
The following run-down of Hojas and Brugger’s achievement is covered in detail on the Red Bull website…
It was still dark when Hojac and Brugger started their ascent of the north face of the Eiger at one o’clock in the morning on April 5, 2025. The two mountaineers had a goal: to climb the north faces of the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau in less than 24 hours to beat the previous record of 25 hours, set by legendary climbers Ueli Steck and Stephan Siegrist in 2004. The pair undertook the Eiger ascent at night, equipped with headlamps, crampons and ice axes. Their main safety gear included a 37-metre rope and a first-aid kit. To combat the cold, they wore thin headbands under their helmets, softshell pants, and layered clothing, including a long-sleeve shirt, mid-layer and Goretex jacket. Sturdy mountain boots and gloves protected their extremities.
Although they climbed the north face of the Eiger in complete darkness, they found their flow right from the start and reached the summit of the Eiger after just 5 hours and 43 minutes, taking the Heckmair route.
Although they climbed without external support, their friend and fellow mountaineer Adrian Zurbrügg played a crucial role. He ascended to the Eiger's summit at night with skis, providing them with water and food.
After a five-minute break, they carried on to the foot of the Mönch, where they took the Lauper route. But when they reached the point known as the Schulterstand (“shoulder stand” – so named because, in the past, mountain climbers had to stand on each other’s shoulders to climb up), they realised that the sling for the rope was missing.
“It was only with creative techniques and teamwork that we were able to successfully complete this section”, says Hojac. By then, they had completed two of the three faces. It was time to descend to the Jungfraujoch.
There, they were met by Daniela Bissig and Erich Furrer, facilities maintenance workers at the High Altitude Research Stations, who were waiting with the French fries they’d been dreaming of. After a 25-minute break, they set off on the last ascent – this time up the 4,158-metre-high Jungfrau – with renewed energy.
“We had broken a trail there three days before, so we made great progress”, says Brugger. At 4:30 PM, Hojac and Brugger reached the summit of the Jungfrau. The two mountaineers had completed the trilogy in a total of 15 hours and 30 minutes, setting a new record.
Hojac and Brugger have wanted to achieve the first one-day ascent of the north faces of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau several times. In 2022, they made it through the north face of the Eiger, but stopped after the Mönch because Brugger wasn't feeling well. On further attempts, conditions or the weather were too bad. Their triumph years later is a testament to the relentless spirit of alpinism, proving that even after numerous setbacks, dreams can be realised with perseverance and passion.
“It was a really emotional moment for me”, says Brugger. “We’ve been wanting to take on this project together for a year now, but then I experienced a perforated bowel. I never would have thought that I would be standing on the Jungfrau with Nico one year later.”
Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau form a striking trio that defines the skyline of the Bernese Oberland and are integral to the region's alpine heritage. The North Face of the Eiger was first conquered in 1938 via the Heckmair Route, named after German climber Anderl Heckmair. It remains one of the toughest challenges in mountaineering. In comparison, the North Faces of the Mönch and Jungfrau are considered easier yet still formidable.
The North Faces the two alpinist climbed:
Eiger (3,967m): Notorious for its formidable north face, the Eiger has been a magnet for climbers seeking to conquer one of the most challenging ascents in the Alps.
Mönch (4,107m): Positioned between the Eiger and Jungfrau, the Mönch offers a range of climbing routes that attract mountaineers of varying skill levels.
Jungfrau (4,158m): As one of the highest peaks in the region, the Jungfrau is celebrated for its majestic presence, and the Jungfraujoch railway station – the highest in Europe – provides access to its slopes.
Red Bull concluded their coverage of the new record holders with a summary of the two climbers…
Who is Nico Hojac?
Born in 1992 and raised in the Canton of Bern, Nicolas Hojac is one of Switzerland's premier alpinists. His first ascent of the Eiger's North Face was at the age of 18, and he has since made numerous first ascents on various routes across the Alps, China, and Patagonia. Nicolas specialises in alpine speed ascents and has held the roped speed record on the Eiger North Face since 2015. He resides by Lake Thun, where he also gives lectures on his climbing experiences.
Who is Philipp Brugger?
Born in 1991, Philipp Brugger is an Austrian alpine speed ascents specialist and trail runner. He has made his first ascents in Pakistan and holds several speed records in the Alps, including at Piz Bernina. Driven by a fascination for fast ascents rather than the pursuit of records, Philipp’s passion for the mountains is evident in his achievements.