Climbing Glossary
If you've found yourself confused by any of the climbing jargon in our articles you will hopefully find definitions for most of the climbing terminology that you may come across in our Climber glossary - if you need something that's not here let us know and we'll add it. Equally if you feel we've got anything wrong or unclear get in touch!
Knots and hitches, as well as prusiks can be found on a separate page with diagrams.
Pocket
A recessed, generally positive hold.
Prusiks
Knots and hitches, as well as prusiks can be found on a separate page with diagrams.
Abseil
A method of descent where the climber uses a friction device (a belay device or figure 8) to attach themselves to a rope to control their descent.Adventure Climbing
Traditional climbing, but usually in more remote/exotic location, and climbed ground up. E.g. The sea cliffs of the Outer Hebrides.Aid Climbing
Using your gear to aid your ascent, as opposed to free climbing where you would use it only to protect a fall. Can be anything from tugging on a nut or bolt to whole pitches of marginal small wire and skyhook placements.Alpine Start
Getting up early, how early will depend on your location. For example, in the Alps it might be 4am, in Bosherston more like 10am.American Death Triangle
Supposedly common on abseil anchors in America, but also present elsewhere. Two fixed anchors (bolts/pegs) are joined by threading cord or tape through them and tying it into a loop. The resulting triangle alters the angles that the forces act on the anchors, resulting in a severely weakened anchor.Anchor
A solid piece of protection to which the rope can be attached to secure the climber. Usually refers to equipment used for abseils or belays rather than protection on a pitch.Barn Door
The sensation of swinging the wrong way when the only holds you have can only be used from one side.Belay
Any anchor used on a route is a belay. ‘The’ belay will refer to the end of a pitch, and a group of anchors. ‘To’ belay is the skill of holding the rope for a fellow climber.Belay Device
A device which enables you to hold the rope effectively for another climber.Beta
Useful information about the moves and/or gear on a route.Bivvy
Sleeping rough, usually without a tent, but with a sleeping bag and a waterproof bag over the top.Bold
Generally means unprotected, but can sometimes just mean runout.Bomber
An extremely good piece of protection. 'Bombproof'.Bottom Rope
Belaying a climber from the base of the route, with the rope running from the belayer, through an anchor at the top and then to the climber. What you commonly see indoors.Bouldering
Climbing short problems, generally less than 6m. Will not require a rope.Break
A horizontal crack. What you take when the ice cream van comes.Bucket
A hold that is even bigger than a jug!Chop Route
A route where a fall on lead would have serious consequences. I.e. a route which has poor or nonexistent protection and difficult climbing.Crimp
A positive fingertips-only hold.Crux
The hardest move/sequence on a route.Double Ropes
Ropes which must be used in pairs, but are clipped separately, used to minimise rope drag. The most common ropes you will see on British traditional crags. Usually 8 – 9mm in diameter. AKA Half Ropes. See also: Twin RopesDynamic Belay
When the belayer allows the rope to slide a little and themselves be shifted when holding a fall from a leader. Lessens the force on the anchors which sustain the fall.Dyno
A dynamic movement, usually a leap, used to gain a hold.Flash
Climbing a route cleanly on the first attempt, but with some knowledge of the moves and/or gear. AKA Beta FlashGround Up
Usually refers to an ascent of a traditional route which may have involved falls before a clean ascent, but did not involve toproping or abseil inspection.Headpoint
Toproping a traditional route to gain knowledge of the moves and/or gear before attempting a lead.Hitches
In Situ
Equipment which should be found already in place, left by previous parties to protect a route. Can refer to single pieces of protection, or to abseil stations.Indoor Climbing
Climbing on artificial walls.Jug
A large incut handhold. Also the process of climbing a rope using ascenders.Jug Monkey
Someone who will put the quickdraws into your sport project for you.Knots
Mono
A one finger pocket/hold.Offwidth
A crack which is too narrow to climb inside, yet too wide for a fist to jam comfortably.Onsight
Climbing a route cleanly on lead at the first attempt, with no prior knowledge of the moves or gear. AKA Onsight Flash.Penalty Slack
Slack given to a climber to penalise them for such things as: Use of the knees, farting, making girly noises, belly flopping, refusing to buy a round or dropping gear into the sea. All penalties are given at the discretion of the belayer.Pinkpoint
Used to denote climbing a sport route with the quickdraws already in place. Most climbers would now simply refer to this as a redpoint.Prusiks
