Seb Bouin repeats Lapsus (F9b)

• Sunday 1st October 2023

Seb Bouin has repeated Lapsus, Italy’s first F9b at Andonno in north-east Italy.

Making a rare visit over the border from France, Seb Bouin was attracted to Stefano Grisolfi’s Lapsus. Originally added by Ghisolfi in 2015, Lapsus has been repeated by a handful of top climbers including Adam Ondra, Marcello Bombardi, Jonathan Siegrist and Giorgio Tomatis.

Seb outlines a bit more about the route; “Lapsus was the first 9b proposal in Italy and when I first heard about this route, I was definitely psyched to try it one day. Lapsus is actually the link-up of two historical routes at the crag. It starts in Noia, the first Italian 8c+, and finishes in the hard part of Anaconda 8b+. There are some hard moves in between to connect both of these routes. It makes for a really cool endurance route, on this blue and orange rock!”

Seb however has taken a personal grade of F9a+ for Lapsus saying; “Regarding the grade, Stefano originally proposed 9b, yet I tend to agree with subsequent ascensionists and think the route a bit easy for that grade, but it’s 100% my climbing style. I would give it a personal grade of 9a+”.