New route on The Matterhorn by Cazzanelli, Perruquet, Farina and Stradelli
- Thursday 8th February 2024
On Tuesday 6th February, Italian Alpinists Francois Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).
Their new line is named Una Follia per Adriana – The Great Dihedral of The South Face (Il Grande Diedro dalla Sud in Italian).
The new route is located on the wild, exposed and rarely climbed South Face of The Matterhorn, sitting between Picco Muzio (4,187m) and the Pilastro dei Fiori (4,000m). Encompassing 300m of climbing in the snow couloir and another 500m of mixed/rock climbing, the route comprises 11 pitches, with an overall grade of M7, 6B, R4.
The team made a first attempt at the new line during the previous week (January 31st) but had to make a retreat, due to unforeseen challenges on the route. Returning with a new strategy for the second attempt, the team set off at 4.30am from Seggiovia Pancheron and summited around 4.30pm on the same day.
Franz Cazzanelli commented: “I saw this route while training on skis with my cousin Teto. I immediately talked about it with Marco and he too had noticed it some years ago. We called Jerome and Stefano and the team was ready.
In the first attempt, we didn't have a clear enough strategy or understanding of how the route would be. We didn't expect such a severe and vertical wall, which is sometimes overhanging. The problem was that we didn't have a clear plan. We also realised quite quickly that climbing this route requires particular weather and mountain conditions. Even so, on that day, we managed to climb 6 pitches of the route, with Jerome leading 4 and myself and Marco the other 2."
He further commented: "On Tuesday, it was simply perfect. The mood of the team was super good and perfect conditions! After a few too-hot days the temperatures had dropped and the sky was cloudy - perfect for us! The route conditions were a little dry but still good!
Jerome quickly reclimbed the first 4 pitches, I did the next two and at 11:00 we were already at our high point from the first attempt. During that first attempt, we were only there at 16:00. At that point I put on my rock shoes and opened the next two pitches. The first was very impressive, a gigantic off-width with a lot of air under my butt and with the bottom of the dihedral totally frozen up!
The second one was easier but the initial slab put me to the test. Then it was Marco's turn who opened a pitch with very bad rock!! The last section was easier and we finally went out into the sun under the huge block overlooking the dihedral.
We want to dedicate this new route, and its name to the late Adriana Pession. Adriana worked her whole life as the Secretary of the Cervino Society of Alpine Guides and was like a second Mum to all of us Mountain Guides here. We’re proud to be able to establish this route in her name”.
