Jorge Diaz-Rullo makes fifth ascent of Bibliographie (F9b+)
- Wednesday 18th October 2023
Spanish climber, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, has made the fifth ascent of Alex Megos’ Céüse testpiece, Bibliographie.
Two days ago, on October 16th, Jorge Diaz-Rullo completed one of his long-term projects, Bibliographie (F9b+) at Céüse, France. Writing about his success on Instagram Diaz-Rullo said;
‘I never stopped dreaming, up until the moment the dream came true ✨
Once again, I learnt a valuable lesson. Never lose hope, because everything is possible. Be your best version, work very hard, stay focused, motivated and above all, have the patience and the moment will come 🍀
Everything is always easier when you have people supporting you along the way. Without you this would have been much more difficult. Thank you! ¡Gracias! 🙏❤️’
Diaz-Rullo has been working on Bibliographie for some time now; earlier this year he spent six weeks in Céüse working on the route only to have to leave empty-handed. However, and as is often the case, progression was neither straight-forward nor linear and weather has hampered Diaz-Rullo’s efforts. Having retreated to his Spanish base for a summer of training, Diaz-Rullo returned to Céüse in early September to renew his efforts on Bibliographie. Céüse however – as with much of Europe – has been un-seasonally hot forcing Diaz-Rullo to take a break from trying Bibliograhie. As so often the case however, that lead to success in a different form; in this instance Diaz-Rullo spent some time in Tournoux where he flashed Clin d'oeil au paradis d'en face F8c.
‘It was awesome to have the excuse of the heat and force ourselves to get out of Céüse a bit. We moved to Briançon for a couple of days to explore this small and cozy crag called Tournoux. I was able to onsight some routes, others on my second attempt, and the highlight was this classic route flashed ✅
But the best part was disconnecting from the project for a few days, climbing a lot, and having a great time between beautiful landscapes, good tries and lots of laughs with my homies 🙂🤙’
Diaz-Rullo’s time to reset himself in Tournoux clearly worked, returning to Céüse he dispatched the fifth ascent of Bibliograhie just days later. Bibliographie is Diaz-Rullo’s second F9b+ having made the first ascent of Mejorando la Samfaina (F9b+) at Margalef earlier this year.
Since it was originally climbed Bibliographie has attracted lots of attention and even a downgrade. Alex Megos made the first ascent after a protracted 60-day siege and when he was released Bibliographie into the wild he did so with a F9c grade-tag; at the time it was then second F9c route after Adam Ondra’s Silence in the Hanshallaren Cave, Flatanger. Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent and finding it a similar grade to Perfecto Mundo (F9b+) at Margalef he suggested a down-grade to F9b+; Alex Megos agreed with Ghisolfi.
In addition to Alex Megos and Stefano Ghisolfi, Sean Bailey and Seb Bouin also repeated Bibliographie before Jorge Diaz-Rullo making it one of the most climbed F9b+’s.