Emma Twyford repeats Mission Impossible (E9/F8b)
- Thursday 4th July 2024
Emma Twyford has repeated the classic Ogwen Valley test piece, Mission Impossible (E9/F8b).
Situated high above the Ogwen Valley on Skyline Buttress, Gallt Yr Ogof, Mission Impossible is one of the classic hard, but well-protected, north Wales test pieces. Originally climbed by Neil Carson and graded F8b, Mission Impossible is not only hard and an hour’s strenuous walk-in but it suffers from persistent seepage on crucial holds; like many before her, this also caused problems for Emma as well.
Since Carson’s first ascent back in 1997 only seven climbers prior to Emma have been able to repeat the route. For the record, James ‘Caff’ McHaffie made the second ascent in 2009, since then Oli Grounsell (2016), Angus Kille and Hazel Findlay (2020), James Taylor and Dave MacLeod (2022) and Steve McClure earlier this year have all repeated MI prior to Emma.
Writing her ascent up on her Instagram page Emma said this about her repeat:
‘Pretty psyched to finally knock this route off the project list, I’ve not had something test my perseverance like this in a while. I started really trying it in the last couple of years but the first year I wasn’t in the right headspace to try hard with my friend’s accident and last year it rained a lot so the chances to try were short lived!
Throw in the fact that a crux hold often seeps, trying it when it’s hot makes it feel nails and I’d turn up tired from route setting, this made it hard work. But this BTS grind leads to that moment of sweet success!
Last session I arrived at the crux to a wet hold, in anger I sussed out new beta to avoid the wet hold. It worked better for me, today we turned up to pissing rain and almost bailed but decided it was worth the effort! Today it climbed like a dream, it just flowed smoothly even with a question mark over the new method. Dealing with pressure is part of the game but I frikking love it! š¤
A truly beautiful line from Neil Carson.’
Caff not only made the second ascent of MI but has the most number of belay ticks too; this year alone he’s belayed both Steve and Emma! Watch more of Emma’s ascent on a video (by Caff) on her Instagram here.