2023 Piolets d’Or Awards
- Wednesday 4th October 2023
The 2023 Piolets d’Or ceremony will be held in Briançon again in November and a list of significant ascents from 2022 has just been announced.
For the third consecutive year, the 2023 Piolets d’Or ceromony will be held in Briançon between November 14th and 16th.
The press release from the organisers say 2023 is going to be a rich year thanks to the climbs featured; “The 2023 event promises to be a rich one, thanks to numerous notable ascents in 2022 on the biggest peaks in the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Tien Shan, but also in the rugged, wild mountains of Patagonia, Alaska, and Greenland. The international technical jury, which includes two women for the first time, has the difficult task of selecting the most significant ascents of the year 2022, based on the values of the multifaceted charter: innovation, commitment level, technical difficulty, economy of means, exploration, team spirit, etc.”
A preliminary list of significant first ascents during 2022 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), with help from Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) and Rodolphe Popier (Club Alpin Francais).
The list of significant ascents is not a shortlist as the organisers explain; “[The] list of significant, innovative ascents in most mountain regions of the World, climbed during 2022, in alpine (or in a few cases capsule) style and with minimal or no use of drilled equipment. This is not a list of nominated ascents for the Piolets d'Or and should not be confused with such: it is a selection of routes that are classed as noteworthy within their particularly regions. Grades are those quoted by the first ascensionists and remain unconfirmed.
The published list of significant ascents comprises a total of 52 routes across the world’s mountainous regions breaking down as follows with notes (from the organisers) on the routes featuring climbers from the UK:
Asia
Pakistan = 5
Not a particularly hard route but an innovative approach and perhaps a pointer to the future. First ascent of Gulmit Tower (5,810m), Batura Muztagh, via south and west faces (450m couloir, 50°, followed by 350m steep rock and mixed), June 27, by Fabian Buhl (Germany) and Will Sim (UK) approaching and departing the mountain (to and from Karimabad in a 36-hour weather window) by paraglider. Their approach from the south, which would take four-five days on foot, is considered too steep and dangerous for laden porters.
India = 5
First ascent of the east summit of Barnaj II (6,303m), Zanskar, via Seracnaphobia (1,500m, ED M5 AI4) on the north face, from October 7-8 by Matt Glenn, Callum Johnson, Tom Seccombe (UK). Rappelled route.
Nepal = 7
First ascent of Jugal Spire (6,563m), Jugal Himal, via The Phantom Line (1,300m, ED) on the north face, from April 25-29, by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden (UK). Traversed the mountain, descending by previously unclimbed ground.
Sichuan = 1
Kyrgyzstan = 3
North America
Greenland = 4
First ascent of Sea Barge Circus (900m, 5.11+) on the northwest-facing sea cliff of Qaersorssuaq, a.k.a. Sanderson’s Hope, West Greenland. This was also the first free ascent of the wall and was climbed partly with fixed rope, then in capsule style, from August 5-24 by Jacob Cook, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Angela Vanwiemeersch, and Kelsey Watts (all Canada except for Vanwiemeersch from USA, and Cook who is UK/Canada) The three women made the first ascent of Time is a Construct (400m, 5.11 A2) on the Red Wall, east face of Agparssuit, in a 50-hour push, over August 1-2.
First climb on Ingmikortilaq (1,150m straight from the sea), Renland, via the northeast ridge (5.11- X) by Hazel Findlay (UK) and Alex Honnold (USA). Ropes fixed to half-height for filming purposes. Also, first ascent of Pool Wall (13 pitches, 5.12c), Edward Bailey Glacier, Renland, by Findlay, Honnold, Aldo Kane and Mikey Schaefer. Ropes fixed so that the team, including two scientists, could access the Renland icecap above, and then cross it while conducting climate-related experiments.
Alaska = 5
First ascent of Thunderstruck (1,200m, 33 pitches, A3+ 6c) on the east buttress of Kichatna Spire (2,739m), Kichatna Range, by Mark Thomas and Mike Turner (UK). Fixed ropes from May 28-June 5 then capsule to summit, on June 8.
Canada = 3
South America
Peru = 5
Argentina-Chine = 4
Australasia
New Zealand = 1
Europe
Norway = 1
Western Alps = 5
Eastern Alps – Dolomites = 2
Eastern Alps – Austria – Zillertal = 1
For more information on all 52 routes click here.