Articles - Climber interview: Ueli Steck

When did you start climbing, and where?

In 1989 with a friend of my father, Fritz Morgenthaler. We climbed a route called Kleine Nadel on the Schrattenfluh, Switzerland - a small pinnacle 20 metres high, graded 4.

What and who were your early influences?

Fritz, plus Ueli Werren, a guide from Langnau where I grew up. Later I had several idols including Wolfgang Güllich and Reinhold Messner. I remember seeing pictures of Güllich soloing routes in America, so of course I decided to try soloing. It was quite dangerous…

Many climbers specialise in a particular area, but you are one of the rare all-rounders. Why?

I just like climbing. At first I mostly climbed rock but felt I needed adventure. I thought my rock skills would help in the mountains so we started to climb hard alpine routes very quickly. So now it’s the other way round – mostly alpine routes rather then crag climbing. Sport climbing is perfect for holidays - no need to get up early because you never climb your project before noon! 

In alpine situations do you prefer to climb with friends or solo?

There are some climbs where it’s definitely faster to climb alone. You don’t have to worry about other people, you’re just free. It’s your decision to go right or left, and it’s your fault if you don’t reach the summit! In the Himalaya the only way to push the limits is solo, not on big expeditions. When you’re alone there’s more intensity and this makes you safer and stronger. On the other hand it’s also nice to climb with a good friend. And sure, there are many climbs where it is better to climb as a team.

Khumbu Express was an interesting project – tell us about the physical and mental pressures.

This was just a great adventure. With Cholatse I knew the face intimately and felt confident I was physically capable of doing it. Yet you leave base camp and you’re looking for any excuse to turn around and get back in your sleeping bag… Once I started climbing though the doubts vanished. I was totally focused. I knew that if I made any mistake I was finished. I was moving fast, felt happy and told myself I’d summit. I found a good bivvy spot, but the night was tough as I had time to think about the situation. I knew I was on a one-way ticket. I had to reach the summit in order to descend on the south side, so I told myself that next day would be easy, I was at 6000 metres, so only 400 more to go. But I didn’t feel comfortable; I wasn’t sure any more… Next day the climbing was horrible. Steep snow, mixed terrain, bad ice - I’d have turned back, but I couldn’t. Eventually the summit… I felt happy to reach the point I had dreamed of for 6 months, but the pressure was still on. I had to descend and I’d never seen the south side before. Cloud was moving in and I had to go as fast as possible. At 11pm I reached the glacier with my last piton!

Back in base camp I was totally lost. I was talking with people, but I knew they could never understand what had happened up there. I was close to losing it. But then I started to think that maybe I was now ready to climb again - I had completed a big route so I’d proved to myself I could climb other big routes. That’s how I was able to keep going.

Why put yourself in situations where the consequences of a problem are so severe? Having done it so often, can you stop?

It makes life interesting. I feel that Ueli Steck is only a little weak person but after climbing a route solo, it was my ascent, I feel much better and I know that I’ve done something with my life. And I like to push my own limits. We’ll see if I can stop - certainly as soon my body refuses to go further I’ll stop for sure. But right now I’m climbing harder each year and I know that physically I’m getting stronger.

What are your future projects? Rock and alpine...

You don’t have enough pages! I have so many ideas. But I’ll be back in Nepal this spring and for me that’s the only place to push the limits. In Patagonia you can open a new route, but it will never be a new standard and will not be taking mountaineering further. The last great problems are in the Himalaya and Karakorum.

So which lines do you feel represent those ‘last great problems’?

There’s the North Face of Jannu alpine style, Makalu’s West Face, lines on the South Face of Everest. There are many problems but of course they have to be climbed in the best way - alpine style.

Would you like to climb in the UK, and where?

I would really like to come to the UK. I’d love to do some routes on grit. But when I only have two weeks available I find myself in France, Italy or Spain for the good weather! One day I’ll be there with enough time. And of course you have to climb Ben Nevis. It’s like the Eiger North Face, you have to climb it at least once in your life!

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