Articles - Training: How to build stamina at the bouldering wall

Having the pure explosive power to nail individual hard moves is great but for longer problems or routes then you're also going to need to do some stamina training to improve your endurance. Here are 3 tips for you.


(You need to train while you're pumped to build endurance - try sets of six boulder problems at a grade or two below your on-sight level and you should be dropping the last moves.)

1. Have a structure to your climbing session and stick to it
Far too often people turn up for a climb without thinking beforehand what they actually want to get out of their session – "how can you train if you don't know what you're training for" as the saying goes. This is fine if you want to just have a bit of fun but if you are serious about wanting to improve then it is crucial that you have a plan before each session. Ideally get yourself a training diary and use this to keep a log of all of your sessions and to plan your long term training. This is a great way to track your progress and it helps you to stay motivated.

(Find a regular climbing partner so you can push and motivate each other.)

2. Find a climbing partner who wants to train too
It is great fun climbing with your mates but if you both want different things then it can be difficult to train properly. If you can find someone who is climbing at a similar level to you and is equally psyched to get better then you are much more likely to push yourself and you will both improve a huge amount.

3. The road to endurance means training when pumped!
In order to improve your endurance, you need to be climbing when you are boxed. Try picking six boulder problems that are a grade or two below your on-sight level, preferably sustained and not too cruxy. Climb these one after the other without resting in between, once completed, either rest while your partner does the same or use your trusty stopwatch and rest for however long it took you to climb the routes. Repeat this six times then rest for 10 minutes and start again. Towards the end of each set, you should just be dropping last moves - if it is too easy then up the grades.

This article first appeared in the February 2011 issue of Climber Magazine.

Rock Over Climbing is the North West's premier bouldering centre, with climbing to suit all abilities