Articles - Bouldering at Abercynon, South Wales

Unknown to most, the southern Welsh valleys hold an amazing array of extraordinary sandstone quarries and natural outcrops; much of which is suitable for the keen and adventurous boulderer.  Largely ignored by the majority of passing climbers who set their sights firmly on the imposing sea cliffs of Pembroke and the Gower, the natural sandstone boulders found across the Rhondda valleys have seen little, if anything, in the way of development.


(Ffred Jones on Ffred V2 - All Photos: Jamie Maddison)

And yet they should have; the rock, beautifully rounded sandstone, provides a climbing experience much akin to grit and which will see its enthusiasts getting up at dawn-break just to attain the best friction.  Goitre Coed Rocks exemplifies the vast untapped possibilities Welsh sandstone has to offer; spread out across half a mile of south-facing Abercynon hillside, the numerous scattered boulders provide a relaxed, light-hearted and social environment in which to pursue a pleasant summer-evenings bouldering.

The evening starts with a warm up on the outstanding Stanage Wall, where the immaculate Middle Wall (V0) and Elegant Arête (V0) provide two quite exceptional highball propositions. The rock is brilliant; gently sloping to produce a considerably rippled slab that one can just tiptoe right up, feeling completely at one with large, sculpted holds.  Proceeding onwards, the strikingly clean-cut Raped Arête (V2) pushes the limits of the term ‘highball’. With a none-too-brilliant landing and holds that, although positive, are not above suspicion this massive problem is sure to provoke quite a rush of adrenaline.

Heading left, the Pissoir Area holds the outstanding Sweet Dreams of Porn (V3); a low-level pump-fest, traversing through a series of oddly shaped finger pockets. The presence of an easier break-line just above the pockets is a bit of an annoyance but doesn’t really spoil the problem. A harder reverse and link up with the nearby Bashing the Bishop (V2) yields the equally good Sweeter Dreams of Sex with no change to the grade. Rock-over aficionados will enjoy the nearby problems FFred and Tweedie’s Classy Stop Out, both at an amiable V3.

The harder problems lay further down the hillside in the Middle of Nowhere Area and require a determined approach though a considerable amount of bracken before they can be reached; summertime especially is a nightmare. Phi-Creatures (V4/5) is an interesting and powerful problem, tackling a small roof before powering up though bad crimps to a large, but poor sloper. A high heel-hook and rock-over sees you thankfully finished. Spotters are a useful commodity as the ground slopes quite considerably and for some reason is slicker than a waterslide.

Also on the same buttress, there remains the superb line of Solaris; a large roof problem leading into several footless moves on poor crimps. It has yet to see a successful ascent. Sadly, this is the situation with most of the other hard lines in the area, which all await a talented climber to cease their constant migration to the coast for a day and come try this beautifully sculpted esoterica.


(Jamie Maddison on Sweet Dreams of Porn)

Approach

Heading North leave the A470 at the Abercynon exit, through the traffic lights and under the railway bridge. Turn right by the cafe and up Abercynon Terrace. At the top turn right up Alexander Road then left up Lock Street. Pass over the dual carriageway and turn first left along Goitre Coed Isaf and to the end of Incline Top. Park thoughtfully. The problems are over the hill.