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Kharashaw!

Well I'm back in Bishkek now after the evacuation of a fellow climber (luckily it turned out to be nothing more than a nasty bump on the head). For nearly three weeks we were out in remoteness of the Kyrgyz/Chinese border zone, miles from any-and-everywhere. There is so much to tell it seems quite impossible where I should begin, although there remains several distinct memories ingrained inside my head, such as huddling, trying to catch my breathe in a concrete tube at 4000 metres with a boulder mat jammed in one end to stop the bitter wind tearing through my single T-shirt. Also, drinking vodka with Russian soldiers and firing an Ak-47, Kalshnokov rifle was pretty damn cool, although friends nearly drowing in the river was not!

The Djangart itself was an wholly impressive place, filled with massive soaring peaks (that seemed to collapse with alarming frequency) in an inspiring location; one never before seen (except for once) by Western eyes. I am sure some of you will be glad to know (and other will roll their eyes in dissaproval) that the Djangart turned out to have some excellent, excellent boulders, which I naturally spent a considerable amount of time playing on. In the end I managaged a beautiful V6 dyno problem called The Day Lasts More Than a Hundred Years, although I was somewhat dissapointed that I had to abandon my possible V8 project due to massive rockfall and an increasingly deathly river crossing; nevermind!

My co-expedition peers had (and indeed three still are having) an amazing time on the big, 5000 metre untouched peaks. When we left they had managed to summit two new mountains, dubbed Peak Howard-Bury and Peak Bowser's Castle (although that last name may be subject to change!) at a respective grade of D and TD- , not bad objectives for first ascents. In the week remaining to them they will hopefully attempt the most beautiful peak in the region, which may or may not be dubbed Peak Manas after the Kyrgyz epic mythological legend.

Meanwhile myself and Dan are roaming the capital, Bishkek, taking photographs, going horseriding and constantly trying to improve upon my meagre Russian. The trip's not over yet and I hope there will be plenty more adventures to be had before we make the long flight back home!

Das Verdania!

Posted by Jamie Maddison